One of the many perks of working at a fabric store is that sometimes I get access to patterns early. And when I saw the new Nikko Top/Dress by True Bias, I knew I had to make it immediately. I love the casual but sleek style of the dress and honestly who can resist a split hem?
At first I wanted to make the dress out of this amazingly soft modal fleece, but then we got hit with 70° weather and I needed to find something that wouldn’t leave me sweating. This rayon rib knit (now sold out) is the same one that I used for my Megan Nielsen Rowan bodysuit and it’s soft and lightweight without being too thin for a dress. The rib gives it a bit of body so that it’s not as clingy as a rayon jersey, but still has that lovely drape.
This dress would have been super quick to sew if I picked the right size. I originally went with a 10 graded to a 6 at the waist, but then went back and took the whole thing (arms and all) in 5/8″. And then I went back again and took in the waist some more. So I’m not sure what size this ended up being…maybe a 6 graded to a 2 at the waist? I find True Bias to run slightly large, though it might have been my very stretchy fabric choice as well.
I also raised the slit by 7 inches and shortened the hem by about 10 inches. I did this after I sewed it of course, which made things slightly more complicated, but I wanted to see how I liked the length as-drafted. And y’know, maxis just aren’t my thing. I never know what shoes you’re supposed to wear with them.
I love the height of the turtleneck and that it’s drafted with some curve, rather than just a straight rectangle. And Kelli’s instructions are excellent as always, with nice details like stabilizing the shoulder seams with clear elastic, recommending fusible tape on the hems, and telling you what height and cup size this was drafted for. Other pattern designers, take note!
You may have noticed that I didn’t hem my Nikko Dress at all. That’s not usually my style, but my twin needle immediately broke when I tried to use it (I’m always forgetting to switch from zig-zag…), I didn’t have any fusible tape, and I’m impatient. It’s not super noticeable and it doesn’t bug me too much, but I’ll hem any future versions.
And there definitely will be future Nikko dresses! I want to make the sleeveless view and probably one without the turtleneck as well. I’m not sure if I’ll make the top, since I may prefer the fit of the Seamwork Neenah and the Megan Nielsen Rowan.
What do you think of the new True Bias pattern?
P.S. Don’t these photos have such a weird dreamy quality to them? I think my phone gets confused around stripes, plus the sunlight and shadows were playing tricks. I think it kind of works for this dress and its California vibes, though!