Reversible Wool Kochi Kimono

I bought the Kochi Kimono as soon as Papercut Patterns released it a few months ago and have been wanting to sew it up ever since. I finally got around to it when I realized that this double-faced wool blend remnant I picked up from Stonemountain would definitely not be enough for a Sapporo. It was the perfect amount for the Kochi, though!

The Kochi is a fairly simple pattern, but of course I made it a hundred times more difficult by making mine reversible. This wool blend is actually two thin layers tacked together, so I was able to take them apart and do fake flat-felled seams on the black “wrong” side. It’s not the neatest, but I actually prefer the camel side so the black side will probably hardly ever be shown!

I also hand-sewed the pockets on because it was impossible to top stitch evenly and accurately through all the layers. I only have one pocket per side because I got lazy, but I don’t mind. The reversibility means there’s a secret inner pocket that’s perfect for stashing my wallet.

The hems were finished by taking the layers apart 1-2″, folding in, and topstitching. For the collar band I fully took the layers apart, sewed them back right sides together along one side, and sandwiched the Kochi body in between the folded-in layers of the other side. I hope that makes sense!

Something to note about the sizing is that this thing runs BIG. I tried on a size small Kochi shortly before making this and it was a pretty good fit, so that was the size I went with when I was cutting this out (or so I thought). It turns out that I actually cut the second smallest size, which is XS! I think it fits well and I would not have wanted to go any larger. If I make another one in a less bulky fabric I may even go for the XXS.

I love how cozy and easy to wear this is. It’s really a jacket,but can also be worn like a warm sweater with just a tank top underneath. I’m not sure if I would wear it untied though. The bulkiness of the fabric makes the fronts lay a little weirdly. It would work better in a drapier fabric, I think.

I’ll definitely make the Kochi again. I love how this pattern would work well in so many different fabrics. No doubt I have plenty in my stash that would be great, but I’m really dreaming of one in this amazing Kokka Beberica cotton/linen canvas!

P.S. I don’t think I can take photos in front of this wall in the winter—the lighting makes it the exact same color as my skin!

Linen Jacket / Stretch and Sew 1007

At my previous job, one of my coworkers often wore an amazing cobalt blue linen jacket that belonged to her mom. I loved how effortlessly cool it looked and decided I needed to make something similar. I found the perfect pattern on Etsy by a vintage company called Stretch and Sew. As the name suggests, this pattern calls for woven or knit fabrics with 25% (or less) stretch. Which I ignored, of course, and went with this linen blend fabric I had on hand (I think I bought it for a Highlands Wrap Dress?). I also ignored the baffling instructions that say to stretch out the fabric as you sew…why???

The only modification I made was to lengthen the body slightly. I also went down a few sizes because I didn’t want much of an oversized fit. It wouldn’t button if it had closures, but I think it’s a nice fit for a jacket that’s meant to be worn open.

In the same week that I finished this back in July, I went on a short work trip to Joshua Tree that involved very long, very hot days. I’m extremely sensitive to the sun (pale problems), so I actually wore this jacket constantly. It was great! I was protected from the sun and still looked decently professional. Don’t ask me why I’m crouching so weirdly in the photo below though.

This is the perfect travel jacket and it has really become a staple in my wardrobe. I love the big patch pockets and the satisfying weight of this linen/rayon blend. I’d love to make another in a bright colored linen—maybe red or a great bold blue like my former coworker’s jacket? I’m thinking a longer one that’s slightly bigger with a tie belt would be fantastic.

Quilted Bernadette Jacket

All throughout the summer I couldn’t stop thinking about a quilted jacket. Kind of cropped with sleeves I could cuff. Not too heavy but still warm. Basically these jackets from Urban Outfitters and Ace & Jig, but made by me!

The Tamarack Jacket from Grainline is almost there and I probably could have modified it to fit my vision, but honestly that sounded like a lot of work. Then I saw Klarissa from Bombazine’s version of the Republique du Chiffon Veste Bernadette. And it’s perfect! So I ordered the pattern from France, double gauze from South Korea and indigo-dyed thread from Australia. The inside fabric is batik by Alison Glass from my local shop.

And then about a month and two seasons of Gilmore Girls later, I had all the pieces hand-quilted and ready to sew. The construction was fairly straightforward and I made a bunch of bias tape to bind the inside seams as well as the outer edges. I didn’t make too many adjustments to the pattern, just lengthened the sleeves so that they would hit just above the wrist when cuffed and fiddled with the side and back seams to get the right fit. This jacket looks boxy, but it has some nice curves in the center back and sleeve seams that give it subtle shaping.

And lemme tell you—I love this jacket. It fits exactly how I want, can be dressed up or down and is so cozy. I get lots of compliments and people are always super impressed, which is a nice plus.

Check out some detail shots below. You may be able to tell that I used the stitches holding together the layers of the double gauze as my quilting lines, which was way better than chalking out a hundred perfectly spaced lines. I know my binding is a mess…I was so impatient to get this thing done!